Showing posts with label guitar veneer. Show all posts
Showing posts with label guitar veneer. Show all posts

Monday, April 28, 2014

How to add veneer to a guitar?




Joshua


I have two solid blocks of wood for the body (which is what I'll begin tomorrow) and I don't know if I should apply the veneer at the very beginning. I still need to cut the body's shape out of the blocks and the route the holes for the pickups and wires, etc. so it seems like it would be a lot easier to just glue the veneer first. If I do, then I can treat the veneer and the wood blocks as one single entity and cut each hole a single time. If I don't, then I'll have to cut the holes out of the body and then replicate these holes on the veneer sheets. All the guitar making videos apply the veneer second, but it seems like this might be more efficient?


Answer
I've done a lot of work with veneers in the furniture industry, and in my opinion, it would be too easy to damage when doing the bulk of the work on the body. I would build the body, do the necessary work on it, including any large holes/cavities, then apply the veneer, trim it out around the body and any pockets already installed.... then at the very last, I'd do any tiny hole drilling, being very careful not to gouge the veneer.

Good Luck



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Thursday, November 14, 2013

What kind of wood is used for the top of the body on a Gretsch guitar?

guitar veneer
 on ... wooden guitar stands from exotic and domestic hardwood veneers
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Tman


I am making a custom Gretsch guitar what kind of wood is used on the top of the body for a Gretsch? I would like a source for your answer please. Prefferably a site I can research.
It is hollow body. The reason I am making it is my uncle passed away and he worked for Gretsch. I am finishing his project.



Answer
Gretsch is a brand of guitar, so unless you are Gretsch, you can't make a Gretsch guitar. On top of that, making a copy of a Gretsch, or Gibson, or any model for that matter without permission is illegal.

I can tell you what the guitar is made of, but you need to provide which model you are talking about, whether it is solid body or hollow body, and what year it was made. All this info is needed for a correct answer.

EDIT:
Almost every acoustic electric Gretsch ever made was laminated... you take several sheets of veneer, spread glue between them, place them over a mold, and clamp it down with a matching mold top or a vacuum press. This ain't easy, even if you have the tools.



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Wednesday, October 9, 2013

Trying to decide between a Washburn and a Fender for first acoustic guitar?

guitar veneer
 on ... Guitar Kit Set in Solid Mahogany Body Neck Flamed Maple Veneer | eBay
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Zach


The Fender is the all mahogany CD60. It's price is $200, and a big plus for it is that it comes with a hardshell case. Stylistically the tuning knobs are silver, and it has a pearl inlay rosette design. The Washburn is the WD100DL, which also has an all mahogany body, and is priced a bit more inexpencive than the Fender at $150. As for it's hardware, the tuning knobs are golden color metal. The downside to this guitar is that instead of a hardshell case, it has a gig bag. Going and buying a hard shell case would defeat any purpose in getting the less expensive guitar and would ultimately cost me more than just getting the Fender with near identical specs.


Answer
I think you can do better than these too guitars, honestly. The Fender has a laminated top, which means the top of the guitar is composed of scraps of wood bonded together with glue. A piece of wood veneer is then glued to that, which makes the top of the guitar look pretty. Laminate-top guitars (also known as "select") are sturdy, but they don't sound good because the glue absorbs sound waves. A guitar with a solid wood top projects a lot better than a laminate-top guitar.

The Fender company makes fantastic electric guitars, but the lower-end acoustics are just so-so, as far as quality, playability and sound. I've never known a professional acoustic guitarist who used a Fender guitar at home, on the road or in the studio, since there are simply much better options available. Fender acoustics tend to be purchased as first guitars -- by people who know Fender guitars are legendary, but who don't realize the reputation was built strictly on electric instruments. I know quite a few people who got Fender guitars when they were learning to play, but all of them eventually switched to a different brand.

The Washburn has a solid wood top, but I'm concerned it might be a challenging guitar for a beginner to play. In my experience, Washburn guitars tend to have thick necks and high action (strings that sit kind of far away from the fretboard). Generally speaking, it's easier for beginners and players with small hands to play guitars that have thin necks and low action (strings that sit close to the fretboard). The thinner the neck and the lower the action, the easier it is to form chords and move smoothly between them. A lot of people who want to play guitar give up quickly, concluding that guitar is just too difficult to play. But many of them would have a much easier time learning if they tried using different guitars.

I'm going to throw out a suggestion for your consideration, since it's a guitar I know and love. It has overwhelmingly positive reviews, as well. Ibanez makes a guitar called Sage that has a solid spruce top, a really thin neck and low action, and an incredibly warm, rich sound. Ibanez instruments are fantastic and the Sage would be a bargain at twice the price. The body is a great size, too, because it's not as gigantic as some acoustics and yet it's big enough to throw a lot of sound. Chances are you'll be playing while sitting, at least while you're learning, and many acoustic guitars are cumbersome because the bodies are beyond huge. If you're sitting and trying to play a huge-bodied, deep guitar, you may have trouble both with strumming and being able to see the frets so you can properly place your fingers.

I'll post a link to the Sage, in case you're interested. But if you're dead set on either the Fender or the Washburn, I'd go with the Fender simply because the neck will probably be thinner than the Washburn neck. Fender necks are a bit chunkier than Ibanez necks, but still a lot thinner than you'll find on some brands (particularly Epiphones, which have incredibly chunky necks).

http://www.musiciansfriend.com/guitars/ibanez-sgt120-sage-series-acoustic-guitar



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Sunday, August 18, 2013

What is a good guitar for a beginner that wants to play a Spanish style?

guitar veneer
 on US Guitar Kits Products - Guitar Kits and Tools
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phillip


i love the spanish style of guitar music and was wondering what type of guitar is the best because i would like to learn. thank you


Answer
Understand the attraction of this kind of music representation for guitar.

And there is a difference between classical and flamenco guitar style of playing as well, but relative to the music they are intended to express. But saying, 'Spanish' is really saying 'modern' guitar in the historic sense that includes most all guitars made today.

Typically a classical/flamenco guitar is the smaller, lighter guitar that comes with nylon strings and have wider, thicker necks than the more common 'dreadnought', steel string guitars. (Those are the more popular folk/western style which are familiar to everyone.) Then, there are the gypsy/jazz guitars that have odd sound holes, wide bridges and mix of silk/steel combinations with large bodies for that particular expression of musical style.

Starting out with a classical guitar with nylon strings and its thicker neck is a good way to learn and really appreciate the development of playing and getting into finger style techniques and ability. A plus once this is conquered both physically, and of play style, that will enhance and blend with any other guitar to be played later on. Yet, the strings will be easier on the fingertips than steel when getting use to playing.

But when it comes to the music and the classical guitar, one then understands the style of music it historically represents as being Spanish in origin or of the classics. It can reflect the music of today's Mexican and Latin (South American) traditional and modern expression when recognized, studied and performed. It is also considered to be more romantic of all the acoustics. And we know why.

Some brands of classical guitars to look for, in moderate price ranges and good quality: Alvarez; Epiphone; Ibanez; Jasmine; Washburn and Yamaha. I do not recommend Fender for any acoustics. They are cheaply made and rare to find one that has good potential. You pay for the label.

Finding a unit with a 'select wood' top, as opposed to a solid wood top, means it will be a veneer laminate of the two kinds. Solid top guitars will best represent the acoustic, resonance and clarity of volume that a guitar is designed to perform when played. This will add maybe 25% to the cost of most any guitar. In the long term, it will prove out such value.

With classicals, the tops can come in either the spruce or the traditional cedar (even more expensive as a solid top). Different woods project slightly different tone qualities in all guitars and you will learn this as you play a variety of units.

Take someone with you who is already into guitar playing when going to a music store or guitar outlet. Do a little research and try out all the models that you can get your hands on to find out what will suit your needs for now.



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Thursday, July 25, 2013

What is a good guitar for a beginner that wants to play a Spanish style?

guitar veneer
 on ART ON GUITARS PROCESS USING PERMANENT INKS
guitar veneer image



phillip


i love the spanish style of guitar music and was wondering what type of guitar is the best because i would like to learn. thank you


Answer
Understand the attraction of this kind of music representation for guitar.

And there is a difference between classical and flamenco guitar style of playing as well, but relative to the music they are intended to express. But saying, 'Spanish' is really saying 'modern' guitar in the historic sense that includes most all guitars made today.

Typically a classical/flamenco guitar is the smaller, lighter guitar that comes with nylon strings and have wider, thicker necks than the more common 'dreadnought', steel string guitars. (Those are the more popular folk/western style which are familiar to everyone.) Then, there are the gypsy/jazz guitars that have odd sound holes, wide bridges and mix of silk/steel combinations with large bodies for that particular expression of musical style.

Starting out with a classical guitar with nylon strings and its thicker neck is a good way to learn and really appreciate the development of playing and getting into finger style techniques and ability. A plus once this is conquered both physically, and of play style, that will enhance and blend with any other guitar to be played later on. Yet, the strings will be easier on the fingertips than steel when getting use to playing.

But when it comes to the music and the classical guitar, one then understands the style of music it historically represents as being Spanish in origin or of the classics. It can reflect the music of today's Mexican and Latin (South American) traditional and modern expression when recognized, studied and performed. It is also considered to be more romantic of all the acoustics. And we know why.

Some brands of classical guitars to look for, in moderate price ranges and good quality: Alvarez; Epiphone; Ibanez; Jasmine; Washburn and Yamaha. I do not recommend Fender for any acoustics. They are cheaply made and rare to find one that has good potential. You pay for the label.

Finding a unit with a 'select wood' top, as opposed to a solid wood top, means it will be a veneer laminate of the two kinds. Solid top guitars will best represent the acoustic, resonance and clarity of volume that a guitar is designed to perform when played. This will add maybe 25% to the cost of most any guitar. In the long term, it will prove out such value.

With classicals, the tops can come in either the spruce or the traditional cedar (even more expensive as a solid top). Different woods project slightly different tone qualities in all guitars and you will learn this as you play a variety of units.

Take someone with you who is already into guitar playing when going to a music store or guitar outlet. Do a little research and try out all the models that you can get your hands on to find out what will suit your needs for now.



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Tuesday, July 23, 2013

What size acoustic guitar should I get?

guitar veneer
 on Guitar Tonewood Back and Sides - Freed Veneers - The Wood Veneer ...
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Lauren


Wanted to play acoustic guitar for a long while and I've finally decided to buy one but don't know what size I should get, I'm a 5''6 girl. Also if anyone knows any decent places to get then from that are cheap that would be helpful aswell.


Answer
Size, sometimes matters. But only the body (style) of the guitar. As there are smaller body styles that some players will be comfortable with.

Anyones' height is not relevant, or size, or weight, or even hands, or arms, or fingers.

As they all can be compensated through a variety of playing methods.

And, get to a real music store or GC that has a variety of guitar in stock, and try them out. Take someone with you who is already a player to help in making a decision.

Cheap is as cheap does. And inexpensive guitars can come across well for many beginners. No such thing as a beginner guitar, but there are some even good, well made and fair sounding instruments to choose from.

Expect to pay $125 - $400 for your first guitar. Really. Especially looking for one with a 'solid' top and not a laminate veneer. But with some brands, they (plywood layer tops) can come across well too and provide an instrument that will last several years.

Look for: Alvarez; Art & Lutherie; Cort; Dean; Epiphone; Ibanez; Jasmine; Johnson; Norman; Samick; Seagull; Walden; Washburn and Yamaha.

Saying, better guitars are around $600 - $1000.

Stay away from 'package' deals or those that come in a box, on display.



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Friday, June 21, 2013

What size acoustic guitar should I get?

guitar veneer
 on Josh with the neck and the blockboard middle.
guitar veneer image



Lauren


Wanted to play acoustic guitar for a long while and I've finally decided to buy one but don't know what size I should get, I'm a 5''6 girl. Also if anyone knows any decent places to get then from that are cheap that would be helpful aswell.


Answer
Size, sometimes matters. But only the body (style) of the guitar. As there are smaller body styles that some players will be comfortable with.

Anyones' height is not relevant, or size, or weight, or even hands, or arms, or fingers.

As they all can be compensated through a variety of playing methods.

And, get to a real music store or GC that has a variety of guitar in stock, and try them out. Take someone with you who is already a player to help in making a decision.

Cheap is as cheap does. And inexpensive guitars can come across well for many beginners. No such thing as a beginner guitar, but there are some even good, well made and fair sounding instruments to choose from.

Expect to pay $125 - $400 for your first guitar. Really. Especially looking for one with a 'solid' top and not a laminate veneer. But with some brands, they (plywood layer tops) can come across well too and provide an instrument that will last several years.

Look for: Alvarez; Art & Lutherie; Cort; Dean; Epiphone; Ibanez; Jasmine; Johnson; Norman; Samick; Seagull; Walden; Washburn and Yamaha.

Saying, better guitars are around $600 - $1000.

Stay away from 'package' deals or those that come in a box, on display.



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Friday, May 24, 2013

How to test wood surface to accept stain?

guitar veneer
 on ... Cutaway Electric Dreadnought Mahogany Guitar With Fishman Pr Natural
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big davy p


I'm trying to apply a tiger stripe finish to a guitar with a maple veneer top. The guitar had a thick coat of sanding sealer applied from the factory that I've been battling to sand off. I'm not sure if I've removed all of the sealer because it is transparent. Is there a way to test the veneer to see if I've thoroughly sanded and it will accept the stain evenly (with water or mineral spirits or something non-permanant)?


Answer
Sealer is designed to fill the pores in the wood and absorb stain for an even finish. Sanding it off is virtually impossible since the sealer is below the surface.

You might want to try a gel rather than a penetrating stain.



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